Mimi Kakushi
4.5

Mimi Kakushi

From the venue’s website:
“Mimi Kakushi embodies this brave new world to bring you a dining experience like no other. Independent, expressive, limitless. It blends time-honored cuisine with new thinking, serving far eastern flavors you’ll recognize with western influences you’ll love.” We see a beautiful restaurant with an exciting menu that’s perfect for a date night or special occasion.

Reservations
To avoid disappointment, we highly recommend making reservations, which are essential. Given its current buzz, we know Mimi Kakushi will be high on anyone’s list in the coming months.  Call 04 3794811 e-mail or [email protected] to make reservations.

Parking
Mimi Kakushi is located at the Four Seasons Resort Jumeirah Restaurant Village in Jumeirah, which we’ve never liked for parking (or getting dropped off, if we’re honest). So, be preprepared to go with patience, especially on the weekends. We wished we had ordered our car to meet us at the hotel entrance at the end of the night, rather than the crowded Four Seasons restaurant alley, so plan for some extra time here.

Greeting and Seating
Mimi Kakushi has gone through a complete transformation from its previous incarnation. We feel the restaurant is a vast improvement over the former venue, both in style and cuisine offered. The hostess and much of the wait staff are dressed in distinctive, sophisticated ensembles, which only adds to the ambiance. We take in the intimate seating, cozy lights, and Art Deco approach walking through the restaurant. There are banquettes for larger groups and a lounge area, should guests want to enjoy a drink at the bar first.

Service
Service at Mimi Kakushi a true highlight, and we’re well looked after throughout our visit.  The staff is quick with a smile, knowledgeable about the menu, provide an excellent pace for our meal, and whisk plates away in a professional manner.

Our Order
Cold towels are provided at the table, which is a thoughtful touch to start our meal. Reviewing the menu, we find it full of Asian favorites, including sushi, sashimi, small plates, gyoza, kushi, and a range of proteins cooked in various styles. While the focus is seafood, there are additional proteins, and we’re happy to find a decent selection of vegetarian dishes. 

While my dining partner chooses one of the signature cocktails, I decide on grape by the glass. After discussing our culinary preferences with our server, to start, we receive one of our favorite dishes, Salmon tataki, AED68. With jalapeno relish, crispy onion, shiso leaves, and sweet chili soy, this well-balanced plate is easily split between two people. Another one not to miss is the Wagyu beef tataki, AED75. With yuzu daikon, spring onion, lime tenkatsu, and fresh truffle, the team at Mimi Kakushi manages not to overwhelm the dish with truffle, which we sincerely appreciate. The team also sends out a selection of beautifully presented nigiri and another of the signature dishes, the sushi roll of Kagoshima wagyu, sukiyaki sauce, avocado, pickled carrot, and renkon chips, AED130. For a one of a kind in the city, the accompanying onsen egg dip is mixed at the table (and adds a bit of silky luxury).

A dish that doesn’t work for either of us is the first vegetarian dish we try, Smoked eggplant with assorted tomatoes, AED65. We agree there are too many tomatoes, and as great as produce can be here in the UAE, they are flat. We’d prefer far more of the smoked eggplant, which was crispy and balanced. Fortunately, the Wagyu and foie gras gyoza, AED70, are delicious. Topped generously with truffle soy butter gyoza, this is one we would both happily reorder. Another favorite (and signature dish) is the Baked bone marrow, beef tartare with pickled onion, and fried buns, AED62. Presentation, taste, and balance all come together for a memorable dish.

For a main, we decide to split a classic Dubai dish, the Oven-baked sweet miso-marinated black cod with citrus miso sauce, AED195. While the fish is cooked to perfection, perhaps our years in the city show, but we wish a restaurant would take a risk, and try and different fish or combinations. We’ve had better options of this dish at other restaurants. Also, while some restaurants might overlook side dishes, the team at Mimi Kakushi certainly hasn’t. We’re impressed with Grilled broccoli with seaweed butter and crispy onion, AED32, and the Grilled baby courgette with mustard miso and chives, AED30. The veggies are an absolute highlight and help balance the main dish.

We end with Ispahan chawanmushi with pickled lychee, raspberry, rose petals, and sesame wafer, AED50. Unfortunately, although we’re slightly pressured to order the fondant -- my dining partner and I decide it’s a bit too heavy after all the food we’ve consumed so far -- the rose is overwhelming in our dessert. On my next visit, I would definitely try the fondant.

Pacing
As mentioned above, the service staff have our experience well in hand. We’re never rushed but enjoy our various courses in a leisurely manner.  More restaurants could follow the approach at Mimi Kakushi.

Ambiance
With the entry done in soft lights and beaded curtains, stepping into Mimi Kakushi offers something different than many other restaurants. The only comparison we can make is to the sophisticated vibes at Indochine in DIFC.

Price
It’s certainly not the cheapest place in town, but we think the prices are within reason for the market and location. 

Overall, would you return?
Yes! While we were recently impressed with Clap, Mimi Kakushi offers real competition in this category. We’re always glad to see new venues opening in Dubai to challenge the status quo. Guests’ biggest concern will be choosing from the large menu, which offers an extensive range of exciting Asian dishes.  

Recommendations
In a market with plenty of great sushi, the Kagoshima wagyu sushi roll with onsen egg is unique. Also, the Baked bone marrow can’t be missed. 

Disclaimer: MenuPages.ae was a guest of this establishment.